Alaska 2014 Part 1: Southwestfork acclimatization climbs

04 vrijdag jul 2014

Tags

Alaska, Goal Zero, Kahiltna Glacier, Kahiltna Queen, Maxime De Groote, Mini Moonflower, Mount Coach, Sam Van Brempt, TAT, West Face Couloir

We’re back in Belgium for more then a month now. after a fast update when we just flew out of the Range there was a long silence. I tried to write down the story of our climb and work myself trough the pictures. But soon ended up in hectic job, which gives me almost no spare time for picture editing. Anyway here is the first part of our trip to the Central Alaska Range.

26^thof April, we arrived in Alaska. After a shopping day in Anchorage we drove up north, to Talkeetna. Checked in at the Ranger Station and made everything ready to fly into the Mountains. Weather seemed good but still tired from the last days before departure, we could use another rest day.

Ready for lift off

29^th of April we we’re ready to fly to the Kahiltna Airstrip. Together with 2 other teams we’re dropped of on the glacier. A first look up to our main objective, Mt Hunters North Buttress, and a small talk with TAT pilot, Paul Roderick gave us some doubts. The ice was thinner then other years and this year nobody tried it yet. There even was no other team planning an attempt. As we set up our basecamp, the 2 other teams left and heading in the direction of Denali. There we’re some deserted tents, basecamp was not installed yet so when Paul lifted of it was a nice feeling, alone there!

Checking conditions on the face. A Goal Zero Nomad 20 with a Sherpa 100 to keep everything up and running

Checking conditions on the Buttress from Base Camp. The upper south face of Denali in the back and a Goal Zero Nomad 20 with a Sherpa 100 to keep everything up and running

A last short snow shower and the weather forecast gave us 4 days of perfect weather. We did a trip up into the southeast fork scouting for route conditions and our thoughts about thin and dry conditions were confirmed.

Maxime hiking into the Southwestfork of Kahiltna Glacier

Maxime hiking into the Southeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier

On the 1^st of May we left basecamp late morning and started the 2-hour hike to Mini Moonflower. Mini Moonflower is a small summit on the ridge between Mt Hunter and Kahiltna Queen. We were hoping to climb its 600 meters North Couloir but were still wondering how to pass the crux without ice. We crossed the shrund easily and started climbing the lower couloir. There was hard blue ice but we managed to find some neve runnels, which made the climbing faster. As the couloir turned into a small gully the route steepened, Maxime led another pitch and made belay beneath the crux pitch.

Sam crossing the shrund. Mini Moonflower north couloir is the gully in the center

Maxime in the lower couloir of Mini Moonflower

According to the supertopo guidebook this crux supposed to be a thin layer of 85° ice but now there was a dry section of 10 meters. I started climbing, first straight up till the part where the ice disappeared. Then following the corner system a few meters on the left. Although there were some cracks with good axe placements, it was difficult to place my crampons. With the help of some aid techniques to rest and scout the next steps I got slowly higher. Almost on the end of the pitch but there is a small overhanging rock formation avoiding us to climb straight up. I made a traverse to the right, back to the original route where I could find some small patches of ice. A bit higher up I made belay and brought Maxime up. Maxime freed the pitch thinking it would be something M6/M7.

Sam in search of ice on the crux of Mini Moonflower

Maxime exiting the crux pitch of Mini Moonflower North Couloir

We climbed 2 other steep pitches and the gully kicked back to a 60° snow ramp leading to the summit ridge. It was already late afternoon when we reached ridge. Motivation was pretty low and didn’t fancy the last 100 meters in loose snow to the summit so we started rappelling down.

Sam leading the last steep pitch on the Mini Moonflower

Maxime topping out on the Ridge of Mini Moonflower

Our confidence grew after this climb. The ice was less hard then we expected and our clothing system seemed to suit the job. We took a rest day, organising our base camp and slowly some other teams we’re flying in. Some just started their expedition others came over from another Glacier. One team, who was dropped of for only 3 days, immeadiatly attempted the Moonflower Buttress but lost too much time on the shrund, and didn’t climbed higher then the Prow.

We haven’t been on altitude for a while. We wanted to make a good shot to go all the way on mount Hunter so we decided to do an extra acclimatisation climb. Early morning on the 3th of May we left the airstrip planning to climb Kahiltna Queen by its 1000 meter west face couloir.

Sam approaching Kahiltna Queen, The west face couloir is the obvious snow line starting in the middle of the face and leading up to the righthand ridge

This route is dangerous for stonefall when sun hits the face. That’s why we thought to leave really early, hoping to top out before noon and staying on the 12.000ft summit till it’s safe again to descend. Kahiltna Queen is the beautifull pyramid at the end of the Southwestfork valley. 3 hours of skinning brought us to the base of the route. We roped up and simulclimbed the lower angled snowcouloir. Our timing was close but as soon we left the big couloir sun started to hit the upper part and stones started falling down. We were out of the big couloir and climbed to the top ridge. The climbing was never hard and after 5 hours we reached the first summit and traversed to the real summit. 10 meters underneath the summit we returned cause the cornice was too big and scary!

Maxime low on Kahiltna Queen’s West Face Couloir, Mt Hunter on the right

Sam approaching the summit ridge

Maxime in a steeper step of the Kahiltna Queen

Sam climbing the last meters to the summit

As hoped we found a good bivy on a small platform in between the two summits. A fantastic view around us and for the first time we could see a less steeper version of Mt Hunter’s north Buttress Although the forecast said it will be good weather for another day. Clouds where coming in from behind Foraker. Hoping it will clear, we got into our sleeping bags and waited. Around midnight clouds were coming close and it started snowing slightly. Time to pack our bags and start the descend. Early morning we where back at the Kahiltna Base Camp. Weather forecast showed us some days of bad weather. This was the perfect reason to take a rest and focus us on our big objective, Mt Hunter!

Bivy with the summit corniche of Kahiltna Queen in the background

The big 3 seen from the summit of Kahiltna Queen

Maxime descending in worsening weather conditions

Our expedition was possible with the support from:

Go Big in Alaska! Mt Hunter, Moonflower Buttress.

26 maandag mei 2014

Posted by Sam Van Brempt in Andere

≈ 7 reacties

Tags

Bibler Klewin, Cassin, Denali, Kahiltna Queen, Maxime De Groote, Mini Moonflower, Moonflower Buttress, Mt Hunter, North Couloir, Sam Van Brempt, Talkeetna Air Taxi, West Face, West Rib

We will write more next weeks but you can find a small English text at the end of this post!

From left to right: Kahiltna Queen West Face (1000m, IV 60° ), Mini Moonflower North Couloir (600m, IV 85° ), Mt Hunter Bibler-Klewin (1800m, VI 5.8 WI6 M6 A2)

Het is even stil geweest na het nieuws dat we (Maxime en Sam) aan de beklimming van Mount Hunter waren begonnen. Onze excuses daarvoor, zij die onze Mount Coach facebook pagina volgen wisten ondertussen de afloop van ons verhaal. Een uitgebreide versie volgt, maar nu we terug in de bewoonde wereld zijn laten we jullie maar al te graag mee genieten van onze 4 weken op de Kahiltna Gletsjer, Alaska.

Our plane and yes, thats our gear and food for a month

Talkeetna Air Taxi, and yes, thats our gear and food for a month

Eind April vlogen we met Talkeetna Air Taxi naar Kahiltna Base Camp. Het doel van onze expeditie was een beklimming van Mt Hunter North Buttress, de Moonflower genaamd, en dit via de Bibler Klewin. Een enorm moeilijke ijs en rots route. Yannick had 2 weken geleden al een vlezige quote uit supertopo overgenomen die het karakter van de route een beetje schetst.

Our base camp on the Southeast Fork

We worden op de gletsjer afgezet en krijgen direct 4 dagen goed weer voorgeschoteld. We verkennen de vallei en de mogelijkheden. We beklimmen een satelliettop van Mt Hunter, de Mini Moonflower, via het “North Couloir”. Zo kunnen we wennen aan het ijs en zien we of onze kleren en materiaal voldoet aan de condities in Alaska. We nemen een rustdag en beklimmen het West Face Couloir van Kahiltna Queen. Om te wennen aan de hoogte slapen we iets onder de top tot we in een naderende storm sneller moeten terugkeren.

Sam in search of ice on the crux of Mini Moonflower

Maxime topping out on the Ridge of Mini Moonflower

Maxime in a steeper step of the Kahiltna Queen

Bivy on top of Kahiltna Queen

Enkele dagen verse sneeuw vallen perfect samen met onze geplande rustdagen tot een 4 daags hoge druk gebied nadert. Dit wordt onze kans. Vrijdag 9 Mei, omstreeks 11 u ‘s middags kruipen we in de wand. Wat volgen zijn lange dagen technisch en moeilijk klimmen. the Twin runnels, Leaning Ramp, the Prow, McNerthney Ice Dagger , Tamaras Traverse, the Shaft, the Vision, ijsvelden en de Bibler Come Again Exit… In totaal een 1800 meter klimmen. 80°, 90° tot overhangend ijs en sneeuw-champignons, M5 tot M7 als je het vrij klimt of artificieel tot A2. Een vluchtige blik in de topo en al snel begrijp je waarom deze route als een van de moeilijkere in Noord Amerika wordt beschouwd.

Maxime exiting the McNerthney Ice Dagger, Tamara’s Traverse is up next

Bivy at the first ice field, Mt Foraker in the back

Sam leading a pitch in the Shaft

We klimmen tot ‘s avonds laat, eten en drinken pas als de zon onder is en gaan na nachten van amper 4 uur slaap terug verder. De derde avond, Zondag 11 Mei bereiken we de top van de Buttress, veel teams keren hier terug maar om onze beklimming compleet te maken gaan we door tot de echte top van Hunter. Maandagmiddag nemen we een korte pauze op de top waarna we de berg afdalen via de “Ramenroute” en zo onze beklimming tot een gehele rondtrip vervolmaken.

Sam and Maxime on the summit of Mt Hunter

Climbing down the west ridge, the Ramen and walking back to Base Camp

We rusten een 5 tal dagen uit, Maxime lost een probleem met tandpijn op en we besluiten een nieuw doel op te zoeken. 4 jaar geleden bracht ik (Sam ) met Joris Van Reeth een eerste bezoek aan de “Central Alaska Range”. Ons doel was de Cassin graat op noord Amerika’s hoogste berg, Denali/McKinley. Wat een groots succes moest worden draaide uit op één van de donkerste periodes uit mijn leven. Joris verongelukte in het Japanse Couloir. Ik werd gered uit mijn hachelijke positie maar het lichaam van Joris bleef achter. Een lange periode van veel sneeuw zorgde ervoor dat Joris nooit gevonden werd en dus nu nog steeds onderaan Denali’s zuidwand of in de Northeast Fork rust.

A snowy day at Kahiltna Basecamp

Verscheidene zoektochten kort na het ongeval waren zonder succes. Dus zoeken nu, 4 jaar na datum was niet ons doel. Na onze beklimming van de Moonflower zochten we een mooi 2^de objectief, en de Cassin leek ons daar best voor geschikt. Een prachtige uitdagende lijn, een mooi eerbetoon aan Joris en de mogelijkheid om terug te komen op een intense plaats. Met slechts 12 dagen resterend wisten we dat we in een uiterst krap tijdschema zaten. We moesten nog verder acclimatiseren en dat zou toch snel een week duren. Dan even uitrusten en het perfecte weer moest zich dus juist in de laatste dagen van onze trip. De kans was uiterst klein maar zeker het proberen waart. Helaas, aangekomen op 14.000ft werd al snel duidelijk dat het gewenst weer zich niet ging tonen. We probeerden nog een poging op de eenvoudigere West Rib maar door koude vingers en tenen zijn we een 600 meter onder de top terug gekeerd. Uiteindelijk zijn we 4 dagen vroeger dan verwacht terug in Talkeetna. Er naderde een forse storm en die zaten we niet graag in een tent uit…

Leaving the Southeast Fork and we’re on our way to 14.000ft, Mt Hunter’s North Buttress and the long West ridge in the background

Bad weather is coming in

Sitting out a snowstorm

Acclimatising on the West Rib

Maxime resting out at 17000ft on Denali’s West Rib. Mt Hunter and Foraker in the back

Ondanks dat de laatste week minder vlot verliep dan gewenst kunnen we deze expeditie toch een succes noemen. Ons hoofddoel, Mount Hunter’s North Buttress is immers beklommen, en dit tot de echte top! Met enige fierheid kunnen we zeggen dat er slechts een 15 tal teams ons dit ooit heeft voorgedaan. En dat lijstje bestaat uit best grote namen….

Maxime De Groote and Sam Van Brempt

This expedition was possible with the support from:

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We just flew out of the range. We’ll write some bigger reports the upcoming weeks, but for now a short write up and some pictures about our 4 weeks long trip in the Central Alaska Range. We flew in end of April, a high-pressure system served us with 4 days of perfect weather. We hiked into the Southeast Fork checking out the Bibler-Klewin on the North Buttress of Hunter and the Mini Moonflower. The Bibler-Klewin looked thin but doable but we decided to start easy. Next day we climbed Mini Moonflower by it’s North Couloir, we took another rest day and climbed Kahiltna Queen by its West Face Couloir. To get in better shape for altitude we tried to sleep on the summit. But bad weather came in earlier so we needed to descend at night.

Some days of clouds and fresh snow later we got the next high-pressure system coming in. Again they predicted 4 days of perfect blue sky. On Friday 9^th of May, around noon we crossed the schrund and started climbing. Because of the difficulty, the fresh snow we needed to clean, and the thin or dry sections we weren’t a fast party. We chopped a bivy at the first and second ice field and a slept a third night on top of the buttress. Always climbing till sun sets, then starting to melt snow and get something to eat before we took a short sleep and started moving again. On Monday around noon we topped out on Mount Hunter itself, descending by it’s west ridge and the Ramen Route.

We had roughly 12 days left, everything was melting around the airstrip so we decided to get higher up. Cassin Ridge on Denali was our next goal. We knew we were short in time but if it all turned perfect it could work. We skied up to 14.000ft but bad weather was slowing us down. From here on, the weather forecast wasn’t looking good either. Eventually we climbed up the West Rib, slept one night at 17.000ft and tried to get higher the next day but wind was blowing hard and we couldn’t keep our hands and feet warm. Descending back to 14.000ft we knew we were capable of getting on the Cassin but with a storm coming in and our waiting time that was over we decided to get back down and fly out.

Despite our last week, which wasn’t working out fine, we can speak about a successful expedition. We succeeded on our main goal, climbing Mount Hunter’s Moonflower Buttress to the summit, without question the hardest thing we ever did!